Opened back

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tsenglo
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Opened back

Messaggio da tsenglo »

This is my first post in this forum. I am a beginner since Jan this year.
I would need a BIG favor from this forum to see how to save my BACK, which opened 3cm from bottom, 5cm from top while I was graduating last night. I believe that I did not have enough glue when I rubbed-joint few weeks ago. I am loacted in Southern California, so I do not think it is weather issue at all, the weather here is so perfect.
I really do not know what to proceed to rescue this.
Please help!!!
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claudio
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Messaggio da claudio »

Hello Tsenglo, can you post us some photos of the damage?
what kind of glue have you used?
Where do you live in California? The weather in California is perfect for the violins and the violinmaking, better than Italy (too much humdity).
tsenglo
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

Hi Caludio,
I am in Los Angeles area. The weather is very good for violin making I guess. I am sorry that I do not have the pictures on hand now. I was so upset last night, I simply walked away for a night after I saw the disaster. I will post it after work.
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claudio
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Messaggio da claudio »

Just an advice, for the repairs use this special clamp:

Immagine


You can find it here:
http://www.dick-gmbh.de/
tsenglo
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

Claudio,
thanks, I order a cheaper one in US, cost me $25. The best model is almost as expensive as my plate, and that will be make no sense to fix it. I will still try to load the picture tonight.
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claudio
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Probably it was a bad glueing procedure, so I think of a probable weakness of your maple back. Be careful, a bad glueing will give you bad conseguences in the future. You can completely reopen your back (and repair it) or start with a new one.
tsenglo
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

Thanks, I will try to fix it if possible. Frankly speaking I doubt it could be fixed in this case, possible a new one is the best route. I will post my conclusion in the very near future.
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claudio
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I resume briefly a correct procedure to prepare a good hide glue:
1 part hide glue, 2 (or 3) parts water. Warm up at about 60/70°C. Then apply it to both surfaces and rub it for about 20 seconds, then let dry. I use the rub joint commonly and never had a problem. It's important that you have perfect surfaces, work with a well sharpened plane. Don't use the sandpaper to plane the surfaces to join.
tsenglo
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

I thought I spent quite a time to plane the back, presumably it was perfect surface because I could kind of feeling the suction in barewood rubbing. So I think it is NOT enough glue in this case. I have very good LN jack plane and good quality og hide glue.

I wish I could save the back or I will restart it on weekend. Unfortunately my Ciresa wood could only be used after Xmas.
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claudio
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Messaggio da claudio »

I have a Lie Nielsen jack plane too, it works so good. :lol:

Per gli amici italiani, le pialle Lie Nielsen sono di una qualità eccelsa (e di prezzo altissimo), se siete incuriositi date uno sguardo qua:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=5
tsenglo
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

Yes, per Frank's suggestion, I procured all the professional tools even I do not know how may violin I could make. I even recently bought a carving board identical as your fr0m Bogaro & Clemente, though it is not essential to be a good maker, but the good euqipment do save me time and I could enjoy the making more.
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claudio
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I'm slightly disappointed with the BG carving board, it moves! :roll:
tsenglo
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

What "it moves" really means? do you have any way to prevent it?

here is my crack back

Immagine
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claudio
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Messaggio da claudio »

"it moves" means that the ball clamp is not strong enough when I work on a back or on a top. I'll call BC to attempt to fix it.

I'm seeing your photo, you can repair it with your special clamp, but no one can tell you if the glueing of the entire back was good or not. Probably not.
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Messaggio da tsenglo »

Hope I got the better ball clamp when it arrives.

I agree with you that whole plate of glue possibly not good enough.

Could I now stud 2 ends from the cracking points and later add some studs when finish the graduating to secure the plate?
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